I found my way back perfectly from Troutback. However, there was a bit of a misunderstanding about where Leslie or Ken would pick me up on the road. I waited by the side of the road where I exited the forest, but no one came so I started walking on the road toward the cottage. It was hot. I was fearful that I would get to the cottage and no one would be there...meaning they'd be waiting for me somewhere. Eventually Ken showed up- this was his second trip looking for me. Luckily it all worked out.
At 1 pm we had a brai. We feasted on Bar-B-Q chicken and potato salad. Leslie made a cola drink with selzer and cola syrup- much better than Coke! It was delightful sitting in the sun, eating great food, surrounded by mountains and lakes.
We played scrabble. Leslie claims she is not competitive, but that's not the case. I knew I had no chance against British-educated professionals (Teacher and DR.) but I managed to use all my tiles first on one game - however with the lowest score!
Lots of conversation in the early evening about life in Zim as a white person. Ken is moving to Cape Town. As a DR he has not been paid by the govt in months. People cannot afford to pay for medical care. You would think just this situation would cause a crisis, but not yet. He's very well connected. I asked him what he thought would happen when M dies. He said he would stay inside, first of all, to see what would happen. He said no one really knows what will be. Grace, the wife, could be killed or could take over. The army has many factions, they could take over. According to Ken, the opposition MDC leader is weak and the party if splintered. Zimbabweans are more gentle people than in other African countries...maybe there would be a peaceful transition. This is certainly an event to watch.
Solar lights created a warm atmoshpere in the cabin and there's always plenty of firewood. I was last to call it a day at 10 pm.
Mist totally concealed the lake during Tuesday's sunrise. When I took a walk, the grass was covered in frost. Within an hour the temperature warmed. I wanted to pay Leslie for the food, but she preferred I give money to the caretaker. We were all packed up by 9, so Leslie suggested we go to Troutbeck for coffee. Most of holiday crowd had left. They decided to get the car washed because in the past, Ken received a fine for a dirty car (police could not see the license plate.) Handwash tooked 45 min, so we walked around the property for awhile.
They dropped my off at 11:30 at a junction in Rupare. I called Passmore and he told me he was about 3 hrs away - not good news, but nothing I could do. The gas station had lots of action - tons of people returning home, stopping for chips and drinks. Lots of men folded themselves like spaghetti to fit themselves into pick-ups. Tons of kids, babies and more were packed into open-air pick-ups.
Passmore arrived about 3, very apologetic. He's great. Gave me lots of commentary - how the British didn't allow the blacks to have surnames, how the Black population now use totems to determine where they came from . The ride to Mutare is breathtaking. 4 lane highways blasted from the mountains.
Passmore is a lawyer in private practive. He was the youngest chairman appointed to Zim's Human Right Commission. His firm represents activists, journalists and others harrassed by the government. As I mentioned previously, an activist disappeared about 2 months ago. Passmore arranged the permit for the public protest about a month ago.
He informed his wife, Tsakani, that she would entertain me for a few days! She gave birth 3 mos ago and has a 4 yr old. As in African tradition, he has 4 children living with him, helping with their school fees. One is Tsakani's sister, one has a mother in Harare, I'm not sure about the others.
His neighborhood is quite nice. The driveway is steep with huge potholes and rocks. The kids watch cartoons non-stop. The said kids in pre-K learn to color, not the alpahbet. They are not aware of the public library in their town. The wife is studying on week-ends for a masters in public administration.
Tsakani treated me like a sister- totally open and super friendly. The kids answered my questions, 2 were friendlier than others.
Passmore and I went grocery shopping. Along the way he stopped to check on "the woman I call my mother" (his mother has "left," as they say.) It was in the high density area. He called for her from the gate and finally went around to the back and found her cooking on a fire outside.
He is planning on doing a Masters. The law degree here is a bachelor's. He went to find a friend who would review his thesis topics for his application. And he went to check on a girl who was watching his colleague in the hospital. So needless to say his 2 cellphones were ringing constantly.
Dinner was served to me and the wife - not the kids. We had rice and beans, coleslaw and grilled rabbit. They told me it was white meart, I picked a piece up and tried to eat it, but did not succeed in swallowing. it! An hour ago, Passmore showed me the cage where there were about 15 rabbits and informed me that he was taking one just for me for dinner! He came home late and consulted with an university registrar about some matters. He then decided that he will go with me to Africa University tomorrow and we should start our visit with the Registrar who will then arrange other meetings.
They gave me my own bedroom, obviously I was displacing about 4 people. No towel was offered. Passmore said the water heater was not working so hot water would be ready for me at 7am. Passmore told me to be ready at 7:30- he would take me to African University.
Wednesday I heated my own water and did pretty well with a coffee cup shower. The girls were all doing their chores- sweeping the floor, washing the dishes and polishing the floor with green soap - which I had used the night before to wash my face.
Africa University is a Methodist U and the former president of Emory was involved in its founding. The Emory Chaplain gave me a lot of contacts to look up. We went to chapel first- everyone was there. Beautiful singing with 3 instruments. The sermon was about - you have been chosen - you have the ability to make a difference. All 3 of us met with the Registrar. He studies with Tsakani. He told her he sent her job announcement for a position in his office. Her school email was not working so she did not receive the information. They attributed their good luck to me! Because of my visit, they found out about the position.
I then met with the Vice Chancellor who had worked in CA. for 15 years. I mentioned that more should apply for Fulbrights. He also said he wanted to have more visiting scholars. Hopefully I will encourage some to come. This is the perfect place. They are educating leaders from all over Africa. Leadership is their mission.
The place was a polar opposite from NUST. No broken windows. Grassy commons between buildings with beautiful plants and trees. Lots of computer labs. Well stocked library. I visited Larry Kies - his daughter studies at Emory. He is from Iowa, his wife is English. He was in the Peace Corps in Botswana in the 70s. They decided Botswana was doing very well with their diamond industry and it was a well governed country. More challenges in Zim. He ran a mission farm for a while He teaches agriculture- they have animals and crops. Some of the students have farms, some will work in agribusiness. He invited Tsakani and I for lunch. They live on campus- his home is like a kibbutz home- small, very pleasant with a nice garden. We had the traditional sadza and veggies. Like everyone, he has a cook - and maybe she does the washing. He told us that every 6 yrs or so they go to the States for missionary work- he is going to churches to fundraise for scholarships, etc. His wife teaches English.
Tsakani and I then went to her relatives farm so we could deliver 2 chickens that had been covered up in the trunk for the past 7 hrs. She checked and they were still alive! They don't make money on raising chickens or rabbits because the feed is too expensive. They decided to give the chickens to the farm, then they will multiply and they'll come out to the farm when they want some meat. Didn't seem to make a whole lot of sense to me. The road is extremely bumpy. The Zim saying is, "If a driver is driving straight, he is drunk." A normal driver is constantly swerving to avoid the potholes.
They killed a roadrunner for me for dinner - supposedly a more tasty chicken. Again- I was served, the kids ate later- taking their own food. Passmore came late.
Thursday Passmore and Tsakani went to the DR. with the kids. If the husband shows up, you don't need to wait in line- that is their method for getting fathers involved in child rearing- one of the most brilliant ideas I have seen implemented here.
2 of the kids were going to Harare - home for the school holiday. Tsakani brought me to Passmore's office to say good-bye. I gave him an Emory business card holder and some $. He then proceeded to quote some Scripture about Abraham. He said he never thought he would be blessed to have a Jew in his home! He mentioned that on his return journey on Tuesday, he didn't have enough money for fuel and the banks were closed. But, he could use some $ that were given to one of the children as a present. And here I come along....to help him out a bit and he feels so honored and blessed. I replied that anyone who helps another person is rewarded. He is doing good work, so things will work out for him. It was an emotional good-bye. They are a remarkable couple.
Now I am at the American Corner in the public library. The computers are so slow I can't download pictures. The place is like a morgue....no talking allowed, no use of social networking sites, no books to check out. I am meeting another Methodist in 20 min.- a youth organizer. Then at 3 I take off for the Brumba Mountains. Check back for pictures!
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