Who said politics?

I survived the 15 hr flight from ATL\Joberg because 4 hrs before my flight I upgraded. Supposedly I got a seat that reclined more. Most importantly, there was an empty seat next to me! Until the cabin door closed, I had the whole row, then this 11 yr old changed seats. But, I slept on 2 seats, so that helped. My hotel guy wasn't there to meet me, so I borrowed someone's phone to call him and he was there in 10 min.

The lodge in Jberg was pleasant. I ate dinner with a woman from S. Africa, at the lodge for a seminar. Next morning left at 8:30 for my flight to Zim. The owner's mother gave me advice about visiting Kruger - turns out one can fly right into the park from Jberg.

Sat next to an white elderly Zim lady. Once again she told me not to talk politics with anyone, but gave me the rundown on what's going on. She repeatedly said - go for it, don't be afraid, the people are wonderful, you'll have a great time.

Waited 1 hr to get the visa- there were only about 12 people in line. I needed a business visa, but that is only for 30 days and I need more than that. Finally they said the university could ask for an extension. They were using carbon paper- I was just wondering who their supplier was.

A lecturer from the Dept of Library Science waited an hour for me. He immediately said let's get your phone set up- turns out his wife works in the phone office at the airport, so she would ask fewer questions to get the sim card.

We had a driver from NUST bring me to the guest house. Like in Turkey, these schools use private cars with drivers that just wait around for you all day.

Arrived about 2. I am the only person in the guest house with 5 bedrooms. The cook, cleaning person, gardener and security person greeted me. The guest house is located in a very upscale neighborhood. Everyone has big metal gates. Our security guard just sits in the car port all day. There are 2 guards in a 24 hr period. Sort of felt silly- all this staff. But, I realized the university is providing employment for people who really need it.

Luckily the cleaning person- Tari - is a young, super friendly woman. We went out for a walk. The cook asked what kind of food  liked. She told Tari to take me to the supermarket and write down all the food I like!

The supermarket was small, but quite modern. 3 guards stood at the entrance. There certainly was food on the shelves, but not every freezer was full. (as I learned later- there are hungry people in the poorer sections and especially in the rural areas.)

Frazer, the gardener is very friendly. He and Tari live here. Frazer's wife and grandson also live here. His daughter is working in S. Africa.

We took another walk later and Tari pointed out the "Jewish church."  I was so surprised, it's right around the corner. The lights were on so I walked in. Just a handful of men saw me...someone must have had yarhzeit.

It wasn't too fun eating by myself, but the food was tasty. Then watched some BBC and started my knitting.

Like in Israel in the 70s, they need to turn on the hot water heater for showers. I have this gigantic tub, but would feel very guilty filling it up. No hook on the wall for the sprayer, so showers go pretty quickly. Tari heats up water for her bath in the coffee urn, she says it's cheaper. 

FIRST DAY AT WORK- FRIDAY
They told me they would come to pick me up at 8, they came around 9. A driver will supposedly pick me up everyday. Esabel, the chairperson of the library school, is very down to earth and friendly. She is planning the course I will teach. They are charging $300 for a 5-day course! Her director said the price may be a bit steep in the poor economy. He said she should reduce it and I said 2 1/2 days should work just fine. So she'll be calling around next week, encouraging librarians to register.

She gave me a flip phone to use. I went down to the business library which is a small room with some book shelves - mainly text books. The librarian is very friendly and was pleased to learn about our resources in our Guides - some of which are free. Students came in to ask for his help, so I got a bit of a feel for his work. He mentioned that he is going to Harare next week to teach a class for 2 days. He said it would be good if I could come along. When I asked Esabel- turns out she was hesitant because she thought she could not get the funds for my travel approved in time. And I think I understood that she did not want me to take the public bus. I told her that it would be fine to travel with my co-worker and that there are coaches - very nice buses to Harare. So maybe this will work out.

When I was in Turkey, I was taken aback that they had squat toilets in the university. Here was surprised to learn they do not supply toilet paper. Maybe more upsetting - no soap. So when we have signs everywhere - WASH YOUR HANDS-- here they only supply cold water. Now I know what to pack for work for next week.

Elijah brought me to lunch. We walked across campus. From the outside, NUST looks like a modern university. But there are many unfinished buildings because the govt ran out of money. The dining room was nice, but the food came from a hole in the wall - the cook had 4 hot trays to choose from. They had a big container to wash hands, but the soap was sort of hidden. When I asked Elijah what he did on week-ends, his response was study. He's working on his PhD. That was somewhat startlingly to me. There is 95% unemployment here. I'm wondering if he thinks he's going to get a better job with a PhD. I'm so impressed with the people who are working. They are very dedicated and want to improve their country. I was told not to mention politics at all. In every conversation people talk about the poor economy and the inept, inefficient government.

Esabel took me to meet Lawton- the Dean of the School of Library and Information Science. He is Anele's friend - thanks to him I am here. He was very pleased to meet me and said Esabel should also schedule some fun things to do for me - like plan an outing to Matobo Hills - a national park near here.

Impressions: the place was rather depressing. No one has decorated their offices. Two share an office- they have computers, not much else. They gave me an office by myself with a computer, right across from Lawton, so that won't be too much fun. The students aren't around now so things are quiet. People work with their doors closed. They do have a tea break. The tea lady heats water in the hallway. Then on a table in the hallway there is tea, sugar and dry milk. At least it was an opportunity to meet a few more people. Esabel presented me as Dr. Pasackow. I told her right away that was incorrect- hopefully she wasn't too disappointed!

The Embassy in Harare wants my detailed schedule- Esabel wasn't too concerned with that, which I was happy to hear.

They knock off early on Friday (that's Zim for leave). At about 3, Esabel was going to call the driver and I asked to be dropped off in town. She was quite concerned. I said it doesn't get dark until 6 and he could show me where the taxi stand is for my return. She relented. When I stopped at the guest house to drop something off, Anele had called to say he was on his way. So, I went to town with him.

Anele is a Member of Parliament- he represents the poor Western suburbs. He's studying law now. Is very intent on implementing their new constitution.

We went to get my smartphone unlocked. Went to 2 different places, paid $20 to have it done. No parking meters, he tips the guy who watched his car. To add minutes to my phone, there are guys at all the intersections. They sell you a card for whatever amount you want. There are vendors everywhere - selling chips, old clothes, etc. The government is trying to crack down on them, but this is how many survive. 

We went to meet Anele's niece who was waiting for a ride home. She's in HS. He basically told her to take me to the national park on SAT. She said fine. She just got her license. And then there's me...no experience driving on the left. And Anele was going to give me this gigantic truck to drive. David, don't worry....read on! Anele's cousin then drove me home. I met their nephew Romeo- a gorgeous 4th grader. These kids go to private schools- getting very good education.

I got home at dusk....quickly changed to a skirt and asked the gardener to walk me to the synagogue. I introduced myself to a man who was just entering. Asked if I could get a ride home with someone, he said sure - so Frazer could walk home in peace.

There were about 3000 Jews in Bulawayo, now there are 54. Most left at independence. As I was told, they combined the Reform and Orthodox congregations. They're now in the Reform synagoge, the Orthodox burnt down. The Orthodox rabbi came from Harare "to convert the Reform!" We were about 20, including 4 women. A woman is converting- she has been studying via Skype with a rabbi in DC. They leave next week for the conversion. The rabbi will be coming to Zim for the wedding. They were all excited to tell me that last Shabbat the place was packed. They had a Bar Mitzvah of a boy whose grandfather was from Bulawayo. About 60 friends and relatives came from San Diego.

It is cold here in the evening and early morning. I sleep with 3 blankets and have a space heater with 1 coil in my room. I brought the right things...within a few hours it is in the 70s during the day.
and so my first full day in Bulawayo came to a peaceful end.